There are few things more “defining” for a nation than gastronomy. For the same reason, when it comes to deciding who “owns” a recipe, it takes little time for someone to fall out. Then culinary fundamentalism emerges. The same thing is currently happening between Germany and Türkiye. At stake: determining the origin of the döner kebab. Venezuela and Colombia are in the same situation. Arepa is the culprit.

An endless competition. The arepa, a round and versatile cornbread, is the epicenter of a cultural conflict between Colombia and Venezuela that spans borders and generations. Both countries see it as a national symbol deeply rooted in their gastronomy and popular culture. But the debate over its origin and superiority gave rise to a struggle as passionate as any political or sporting debate. Who is right?

We agree to share. As far as is known, and we do not exclude that some historical discoveries may change it, as we have recently seen with focaccia, the origin of the arepa dates back to the indigenous cultures of northern South America documented by the Spanish conquistadors. Consumption in the 15th century. The term “arepa” itself comes from the Cumanagoto language, meaning “erepa” from present-day Venezuela, but similar versions are believed to have been consumed throughout the region without current border distinctions.

Over time, the arepa developed in different ways in both countries. In Colombia, for example, arepas are often a crispy accompaniment to other dishes and vary by region, while in Venezuela they are softer and served as a main course filled with ingredients such as cheese, meat, plantains or chicken. In this regard, Colombians prefer to use fresh corn to prepare them, while Venezuelans use pre-cooked corn flour, making them easier to prepare and transport.

Cultural debate. Venezuela’s economic and political crisis has caused millions of Venezuelans to emigrate and, yes, many to Colombia, where the arepa version is gaining even more visibility. This cultural exchange has made the competition a bit more intense, with Venezuelan areperias proliferating in Colombian cities and abroad.

In fact, the more widespread Venezuelan diaspora around the world has increased the perception of arepa as a Venezuelan dish from as far away as Rotterdam, where European consumers associate it with both Colombia and Venezuela.

Political funding and media influence. Even Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro tried to politicize the arepa, declaring it to belong exclusively to Venezuela and starting a process to have UNESCO recognize it as his country’s cultural heritage.

Of course, this statement sparked angry reactions and discussions on social networks; these jokes and memes have sparked a wave of humorous criticism, such as that of Venezuelan comedian Angelo Colina, who joked about the supposed “unpleasant taste” of a Colombian arepa. .

A recipe that acts as a cultural bridge. Be that as it may, despite the rivalries, figures such as Diego Mendoza, a Venezuelan immigrant in Rotterdam, emphasized in a report published in the New York Times that the arepa should be a symbol of unity, not division. Its global popularity reflects its ability to adapt to different cultural contexts, making it a food that transcends national identities.

What is clear is that “flavor” has become much more than a description of identity. While Venezuela has led the way in the global spread of the arepa thanks to its diaspora, Colombia seems to have established its arepas in international popular culture (even appearing in the Disney movie Encanto, by the way). Moreover, after all, the arepa does not belong to just any one country; It is a common heritage that celebrates the cultural richness of both nations.

The plot of Twist. After all, history tells us that it makes little sense to give authorship to many recipes. In fact, as we said a while ago, preparations such as tamales or arepas were already available in pre-Columbian times, but the arrival of Spanish beef and pork meant that these dishes would now be filled with new ingredients. And in turn the arepa has made its way to Spain (with a strong presence in the Canary Islands).

Moreover, on this “journey” to Colombian regions, the preparation of many traditional dishes varies depending on the region. Ultimately, this blend of ingredients allowed the culture to flourish and helped give Spain, Mexico, Venezuela, and Colombia, among others, such enviable cuisines.

As Mendoza told the NYT, “arepa should belong to the world.” I also add that paella, tortilla (with onions) or tacos should also be universalized.

Image | Amethyst Cosmos, Steven Depolo

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