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Even experienced car owners sometimes panic when, for no reason at all, the brakes begin to make unpleasant high-pitched sounds ranging from the usual squeal to an obnoxious
Squealing brakes, especially the most powerful front brakes, are considered one of the most common and annoying system malfunctions. It is often necessary to recognize that unpleasant high-frequency sounds are not a full-fledged malfunction. So it is just an annoying symptom that causes discomfort and indicates that the system is not working perfectly.
A good specialist will name more than twenty different factors as sources of cracking, and the AvtoVzglyad portal has already talked about most of them more than once. But today we will talk about the most common and superficial reason, which sometimes even other advanced drivers do not take into account.
So the brakes suddenly creaked unexpectedly when the corresponding pedal was pressed. Turns into a biting, unpleasant squeak on the edge of ultrasound. Did dirt get in? Has sand fallen on the working surface of the brake pad? Or maybe something more serious: the wheel bearing “reaches” or one of the brake cylinders begins to jam, causing misalignment in the working brake pair – disc / brake pad?
The thought immediately comes to mind that you need to lubricate the caliper guides and fill the anthers with grease. And at the same time treat the rear parts of the pads and anti-squeak plates with ceramic or copper paste … Do not rush to build conspiracy theories. Everything can be much simpler.
Do you remember if you visited a tire shop recently? The tire was leaking or the tires were replaced per season. Perhaps they just removed the wheel during a service to, say, repair suspension parts unrelated to the braking system? And if so, your current creaking is most likely the result of unskilled actions by repairmen or tire fitters. And the brakes have nothing to do with it.
It may sound crazy, but now it is already difficult to meet a master who uses a torque wrench when repairing a braking system or tires. Today a different tool is used: pneumatic, at first glance more technologically advanced and much more productive. You can’t argue with the latter, but as far as manufacturability in the true sense of the word is concerned, it’s a big question.
One of the simplest and most effective ways to eliminate squeaking near the wheels is to banally pull their nuts / bolts at the right time. Often it is the fastener that has been tightened too much. Be honest, how many times have you witnessed the use of a torque wrench at a gas station or tire shop?
A common mistake is over-tightening bolts without torque control. At best, the “master” will plant the wheel with the help of an almighty pneumatic wrench, masterfully spending no more than a second and a half on each bolt, and perhaps formally clicking in two cases out of ten. the dynamometer “rattles” afterwards. Suppose he is a competent specialist who understands the importance of dynamometry.
Meanwhile, the impact wrench does not develop 20 or 30 Nm. And not even 80, 100 or 150 – the power in this range is recommended by various car manufacturers for mounting wheels. And 800 Nm, 900… And sometimes all 1600 Nm! So, by deftly putting your wheel bolts in place, the mechanic exceeds the recommended torque from 2.5 to 6.5 times, depending on the tool model! And supposedly fictitious control with a torque wrench after the operation of an electric pneumatic wrench resembles a control shot with a shot after being hit wildly by a medium-caliber rapid-fire gun.
What is going on? What is the physics of the process? Brakes are a particular risk area. For example, an under-tightened or even over-tightened disc fastener can lead to an accident. After all, it is the working disc/pad pair that absorbs all of the kinetic energy during deceleration. Same story with wheel bolts/nuts.
The check specified by the manufacturer for each specific model of the exact tightening torque of all nuts and bolts that the car has “under the belt” must be strictly observed. Adequate interaction of the components, ensured by optimal tightening, prevents the “mechanical stress” of the parts, which can lead to deformation and misalignment. Over-tightened nuts cause the transmission of frequencies that generate noise and extraneous sounds. Each wire is a damper between components and turns into a conductor of vibrations. And during braking, the components begin to resonate – “sing” – and spread this “melody” throughout the system.
In a word, if you hear an unmotivated creak, try the banal method – tighten the wheel supports at the right time, which is probably indicated in the manual for your car. See, the creaking disappears…
Squealing brakes, especially the most powerful front brakes, are considered one of the most common and annoying system malfunctions. It is often necessary to recognize that unpleasant high-frequency sounds are not a full-fledged malfunction. So it is just an annoying symptom that causes discomfort and indicates that the system is not working perfectly.
A good specialist will name more than twenty different factors as sources of cracking, and the AvtoVzglyad portal has already talked about most of them more than once. But today we will talk about the most common and superficial reason, which sometimes even other advanced drivers do not take into account.
So the brakes suddenly creaked unexpectedly when the corresponding pedal was pressed. Turns into a biting, unpleasant squeak on the edge of ultrasound. Did dirt get in? Has sand fallen on the working surface of the brake pad? Or maybe something more serious: the wheel bearing “reaches” or one of the brake cylinders begins to jam, causing misalignment in the working brake pair – disc / brake pad?
The thought immediately comes to mind that you need to lubricate the caliper guides and fill the anthers with grease. And at the same time treat the rear parts of the pads and anti-squeak plates with ceramic or copper paste … Do not rush to build conspiracy theories. Everything can be much simpler.
Do you remember if you visited a tire shop recently? The tire was leaking or the tires were replaced per season. Perhaps they just removed the wheel during a service to, say, repair suspension parts unrelated to the braking system? And if so, your current creaking is most likely the result of unskilled actions by repairmen or tire fitters. And the brakes have nothing to do with it.
It may sound crazy, but now it is already difficult to meet a master who uses a torque wrench when repairing a braking system or tires. Today a different tool is used: pneumatic, at first glance more technologically advanced and much more productive. You can’t argue with the latter, but as far as manufacturability in the true sense of the word is concerned, it’s a big question.
One of the simplest and most effective ways to eliminate squeaking near the wheels is to banally pull their nuts / bolts at the right time. Often it is the fastener that has been tightened too much. Be honest, how many times have you witnessed the use of a torque wrench at a gas station or tire shop?
A common mistake is over-tightening bolts without torque control. At best, the “master” will plant the wheel using a powerful pneumatic wrench, masterfully spending no more than a second and a half on each bolt, and perhaps formally clicking in two cases out of ten. the dynamometer “rattles” afterwards. Suppose he is a competent specialist who understands the importance of dynamometry.
Meanwhile, the impact wrench does not develop 20 or 30 Nm. And not even 80, 100 or 150 – the power in this range is recommended by various car manufacturers for mounting wheels. And 800 Nm, 900… And sometimes all 1600 Nm! So, by deftly putting your wheel bolts in place, the mechanic exceeds the recommended torque from 2.5 to 6.5 times, depending on the tool model! And supposedly fictitious control with a torque wrench after the operation of an electric pneumatic wrench resembles a control shot with a shot after being hit wildly by a medium-caliber rapid-fire gun.
What is going on? What is the physics of the process? Brakes are a particular risk area. For example, an under-tightened or even over-tightened disc fastener can lead to an accident. After all, it is the working disk/pad pair that absorbs all of the kinetic energy during deceleration. Same story with wheel bolts/nuts.
The check specified by the manufacturer for each specific model of the exact tightening torque of all nuts and bolts that the car has “under the belt” must be strictly observed. Adequate interaction of the components, ensured by optimal tightening, prevents the “mechanical stress” of the parts, which can lead to deformation and misalignment. Over-tightened nuts cause the transmission of frequencies that generate noise and extraneous sounds. Each wire is a damper between components and turns into a conductor of vibrations. And during braking, the components begin to resonate – “sing” – and spread this “melody” throughout the system.
In a word, if you hear an unmotivated creak, try the banal method – tighten the wheel supports at the right time, which is probably indicated in the manual for your car. See, the creaking disappears…
Source: Avto Vzglyad
Donald Salinas is an experienced automobile journalist and writer for Div Bracket. He brings his readers the latest news and developments from the world of automobiles, offering a unique and knowledgeable perspective on the latest trends and innovations in the automotive industry.
