9621 Agnes Crossing, Lake Suzanneview, New Mexico Island 84604-9295.
We cannot but agree: when it gets cold outside and the heating in the cabin stops working, driving becomes very problematic. After all, it is not only uncomfortable,
Maybe let’s start small – with problems with the fan itself. As a rule, this happens due to defects in the bearings of the mechanism or graphite brushes. As a result, the warm air “disappears” and only coolness enters the cabin, which is completely irrelevant for use at subzero temperatures. An equally common problem is a defect in the heating radiator, which often becomes clogged with dirt, lint, dust, tree leaves, insects and other debris.
In addition, low-quality coolant also plays a role, as it precipitates and “blocks” the heating. But here it may not help to flush the radiator or completely replace it. To be precise: there is no time to help. Since antifreeze is actually leaking or insufficient, there is a risk that the radiator pipes and connecting pipes in the cooling system will break. But it’s even worse if the engine itself overheats and suddenly loses its lifespan. Therefore, it is better to quickly determine the cause of the pressure drop and add coolant before problems arise.
Also expect problems if the thermostat that controls the circulation of antifreeze through the small and large circles of the cooling system gets stuck. And it doesn’t matter if it’s closed or open. Yes, in the closed position the heater will continue to “blow” warm air, and at the same time the power supply unit will overheat again. You already know what this means. If the thermostat is “stuck” in the open position, the heater will heat up more slowly as the speed increases and the windows will fog up more intensely. There is only one treatment: immediate replacement of the part.
There is also danger if air gets into the cooling system pipe. This happens due to a violation of the tightness of the channels, or due to damage to the gaskets between the cylinder head and the block itself. If everything is not so critical, the way out of the situation is to bleed the system after removing the radiator cap. However, it is first worth examining how clogged or deformed the filter element is in the cabin. An old or damaged filter also often causes a decrease in the intensity of the stove’s operation, and sometimes even its failure.
Maybe let’s start small – with problems with the fan itself. As a rule, this happens due to defects in the bearings of the mechanism or graphite brushes. As a result, the warm air “disappears” and only coolness enters the cabin, which is completely irrelevant for use at subzero temperatures. An equally common problem is a defect in the heating radiator, which often becomes clogged with dirt, lint, dust, tree leaves, insects and other debris.
In addition, low-quality coolant also plays a role, as it precipitates and “blocks” the heating. But here it may not help to flush the radiator or completely replace it. To be precise: there is no time to help. Since antifreeze is actually leaking or insufficient, there is a risk that the radiator pipes and connecting pipes in the cooling system will break. But it’s even worse if the engine itself overheats and suddenly loses its lifespan. Therefore, it is better to quickly determine the cause of the pressure drop and add coolant before problems arise.
Also expect problems if the thermostat that controls the circulation of antifreeze through the small and large circles of the cooling system gets stuck. And it doesn’t matter if it’s closed or open. Yes, in the closed position the heater will continue to “blow” warm air, and at the same time the power supply unit will overheat again. You already know what this means. If the thermostat is “stuck” in the open position, the heater will heat up more slowly as the speed increases and the windows will fog up more intensely. There is only one treatment: immediate replacement of the part.
There is also danger if air gets into the cooling system pipe. This happens due to a violation of the tightness of the channels, or due to damage to the gaskets between the cylinder head and the block itself. If everything is not so critical, the way out of the situation is to bleed the system after removing the radiator cap. However, it is first worth examining how clogged or deformed the filter element is in the cabin. An old or damaged filter also often causes a decrease in the intensity of the stove’s operation, and sometimes even its failure.
Source: Avto Vzglyad
Donald Salinas is an experienced automobile journalist and writer for Div Bracket. He brings his readers the latest news and developments from the world of automobiles, offering a unique and knowledgeable perspective on the latest trends and innovations in the automotive industry.
