The main mistakes summer residents make when buying a trailer for the first time
July 14, 2022
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Renting a truck to bring household items, new furniture or building materials to the dacha is now expensive. Therefore, real summer residents, who no longer have sufficient payload
Renting a truck to bring household items, new furniture or building materials to the dacha is now expensive. Therefore, real summer residents, who no longer have sufficient payload for their cars, first buy luggage rails and the next step, when the possibilities of the roof rack are also exhausted, is to buy a trailer. The AvtoVzglyad portal has prepared some simple tips for choosing your first “freight assistant”.
The biggest mistake of anyone buying a trailer for the first time is buying the cheapest option. The logic of such an act is quite understandable: it is planned to carry cargo quite rarely, so the temptation is great not to spend big money on a solid structure … Which is fraught with further setbacks. In just 2-3 years of use, for which only a few flights have been made, a simple trailer starts to have problems.
Therefore, if there is not enough money, it is more correct to look at used equipment than to take the most affordable of the new. True, when choosing a second-hand store, the main thing is a thoughtful check of documents and numbers. Unfortunately, the VIN is often illegible, because it quickly breaks down due to corrosion (especially if the trailer has been in an unheated and also poorly ventilated garage).
As for the design, it is better for an ordinary motorist to consider equipment weighing up to 750 kilograms, which can be used with the rights of a “car” category B. But buying a heavy trailer is a completely different story ! However, when choosing “light” models, difficulties may also arise, because the future owner will have to choose a suspension scheme, drawbar design and much more.
In general, trailer manufacturers have been very actively using primitive rubber harness suspension for a long time. This is a resource option, which, however, does not tolerate overload at all: to extend the life of the torsion bars, it is recommended to load 10-15% less than prescribed by the manufacturer. In addition, such trailers without luggage go through bumps very badly – in simple terms, “goats”.
Therefore, it is better to choose a spring version. But instead of a multi-sheet scheme, we recommend opting for a single-layer chassis, with a single bottom plate from the Gazelle Gazelle. And the best hubs are by no means foreign, but from the VAZ G8! “Eight” wheel bearings are quite durable, especially if the trailer manufacturer has installed a more load-bearing option from the “Lada” front suspension.
Another important point is the choice of drawbar design. Old-fashioned motorists are advised to choose a V-shape, which they say is harder and therefore more reliable. And this is another mistake! In fact, the I-shaped scheme is not inferior in rigidity or reliability, but it gives the roadtrain better maneuverability, since the trailer can be “folded” almost completely without fear of damaging the rear bumper of the car with a drawbar.
Another erroneous “advice from experienced” is to choose strictly uniaxial models. They say they are easier to maneuver. But in fact, the two-axle version is much more stable at high speeds, and most importantly, it is much easier to perform complex maneuvers with it. And in general it is more predictable for a novice “clutch”. That’s just the price of a “two axis” will be about 40% higher than the cost of a “single axis”.
Awning, accessories, electricity and optics are secondary matters on the one hand, and ease of use consists of such trifles on the other: making the socket work, letting the light shine and closing the locks. Therefore, many are willing to overpay for LED optics, imported fixtures and aluminum sides – the latter are more beautiful and durable than usual, but significantly more expensive.
But the most important element is of course the frame. Choose one stamped from thick metal coated with a layer of “hot zinc” (in this case, the surface will look “pocked”, like Soviet galvanized buckets). This method of steel processing guarantees reliable protection against corrosion of both external surfaces and internal cavities, which significantly extends the life of the trailer.
How the frame is mounted – bolted or welded – depends on the manufacturer. There is a version that makes bolted connections more reliable, because such a “skeleton” is more resistant to shock loads, with the exception of metal weakening. In addition, in case of mechanical damage, it becomes possible to quickly replace individual parts … Welding fans answer: the hardware will have to be stretched from time to time.
In any case, if you liked the trailer in terms of design, features and quality, there is no point in looking specifically for a welded or bolted frame! There is no point in buying a full set of options right away. Yes, you have to pay extra for the support leg, the spare wheel, the cables of the tailgate attachment, not to mention the awning. But on a budget, you can easily take a “bare” pack and buy all the necessary “dopas” later.
Photo: tanko.su.
Photo: tanko.su.
Photo: inspirationbylife.nl.
The biggest mistake of anyone buying a trailer for the first time is buying the cheapest option. The logic of such an act is quite understandable: it is planned to carry cargo quite rarely, so the temptation is great not to spend big money on a solid structure … Which is fraught with further setbacks. In just 2-3 years of use, for which only a few flights have been made, a simple trailer starts to have problems.
Therefore, if there is not enough money, it is more correct to look at used equipment than to take the most affordable of the new. True, when choosing a second-hand store, the main thing is a thoughtful check of documents and numbers. Unfortunately, the VIN is often illegible, because it quickly breaks down due to corrosion (especially if the trailer has been in an unheated and also poorly ventilated garage).
As for the design, it is better for an ordinary motorist to consider equipment weighing up to 750 kilograms, which can be used with the rights of a “car” category B. But buying a heavy trailer is a completely different story ! However, when choosing “light” models, difficulties may also arise, because the future owner will have to choose a suspension scheme, drawbar design and much more.
In general, trailer manufacturers have been very actively using primitive rubber harness suspension for a long time. This is a resource option, which, however, does not tolerate overload at all: to extend the life of the torsion bars, it is recommended to load 10-15% less than prescribed by the manufacturer. In addition, such trailers without luggage go through bumps very badly – in simple terms, “goats”.
Therefore, it is better to choose a spring version. But instead of a multi-sheet scheme, we recommend choosing a single-layer chassis, with a single bottom plate from the Gazelle Gazelle. And the best hubs are by no means foreign, but from the VAZ G8! “Eight” wheel bearings are quite durable, especially if the trailer manufacturer has installed a more load-bearing option from the “Lada” front suspension.
Another important point is the choice of drawbar design. Old-fashioned motorists are advised to choose a V-shape, which they say is harder and therefore more reliable. And this is another mistake! In fact, the I-shaped scheme is not inferior in rigidity or reliability, but it gives the roadtrain better maneuverability, since the trailer can be “folded” almost completely without fear of damaging the rear bumper of the car with a drawbar.
Another erroneous “advice from experienced” is to choose strictly uniaxial models. They say they are easier to maneuver. But in fact, the two-axle version is much more stable at high speeds, and most importantly, it is much easier to perform complex maneuvers with it. And in general it is more predictable for a novice “clutch”. That’s just the price of a “two axis” will be about 40% higher than the cost of a “single axis”.
Awning, accessories, electricity and optics are secondary matters on the one hand, and ease of use consists of such trifles on the other: making the socket work, letting the light shine and closing the locks. Therefore, many are willing to overpay for LED optics, imported fixtures and aluminum sides – the latter are more beautiful and durable than usual, but significantly more expensive.
But the most important element is of course the frame. Choose one stamped from thick metal coated with a layer of “hot zinc” (in this case, the surface will look “pocked”, like Soviet galvanized buckets). This method of steel processing guarantees reliable protection against corrosion of both external surfaces and internal cavities, which significantly extends the life of the trailer.
How the frame is mounted – bolted or welded – depends on the manufacturer. There is a version that makes bolted connections more reliable, because such a “skeleton” is more resistant to shock loads, with the exception of metal weakening. In addition, in case of mechanical damage, it becomes possible to quickly replace individual parts … Welding fans answer: the hardware will have to be stretched from time to time.
In any case, if you liked the trailer in terms of design, features and quality, there is no point in looking specifically for a welded or bolted frame! There is no point in buying a full set of options right away. Yes, you have to pay extra for the support leg, the spare wheel, the cables of the tailgate attachment and last but not least the awning. But on a budget, you can easily take a “bare” pack and buy all the necessary “dopas” later.
I’m Sandra Torres, a passionate journalist and content creator. My specialty lies in covering the latest gadgets, trends and tech news for Div Bracket. With over 5 years of experience as a professional writer, I have built up an impressive portfolio of published works that showcase my expertise in this field.