Ways to permanently and efficiently protect the car against rust
- November 11, 2022
- 0
“If you can’t buy a new car, make sure the car you have lasts as long as possible” – this thought is now in the mind of most
“If you can’t buy a new car, make sure the car you have lasts as long as possible” – this thought is now in the mind of most car owners. And the fact that the car from rust will not look very good is still a small part of the problems. Along with the bodywork, the fuel and brake lines rust, the electrician fails. Safety suffers when sills, spars and subframes deteriorate. In addition, you can easily lose the fin number on the body, allowing corrosion to cleanly “lick off”. To avoid this, it is worth pre-arranging all the necessary anti-corrosion measures for the car.
First you need to protect the body from rust. If the car has already been “walked” quite a bit, then before the winter season with salt baths and sandblasting, it is imperative to process the least protected body elements that have suffered abrasions during the summer season. This also applies to new cars. It is possible, but not worthwhile, to expect that the anti-corrosion treatment has been carried out in the factory. How many videos are there that as such no anti-corrosion treatment is done on the conveyor and new machines already have rusty seams.
And dealers … well, they live with “dopami”, respectively, anti-corrosion. Believe me, at best they will blow “Movil” for the sake of appearance. The car goes for a year or two, on the third it is already transferred to the trade-in. It used to be important for dealers to create a sales plan. Today, there is no flow of people willing to trade in a three-year-old car for a new one. Most are determined to keep riding what they have.
That’s why we take matters into our own hands and carefully inspect the body. We start at the bottom, which actually doesn’t want to rot, namely from the thresholds and the bottom. Special attention to places where there was contact with various objects. Did you grind against the high curbs? And we are sure that no rocks have arrived along the bottom.
If during the inspection they find a damaged coating or, worse, bare metal, we take gun grease, add mining to it, heat it while stirring …. Stop Stop! Leave the collective farm! This is only for garage storytellers, sports, in which it is full of oxides, can effectively fight corrosion. In fact, the opposite is true. So we will only use specialized tools. To protect the bottom, a special anti-corrosion agent is used, which creates a durable non-wetting film on the metal to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
As an example, we can mention the drug reinWell RW-91, which is produced in Russia under a German license. In addition to protective functions, RW-91 also neutralizes rust residues that have not been removed from the surface before the application of the drug. But this does not mean that the composition can simply be sprayed and forgotten. You still need to prepare the surface. However effective the anti-corrosion agent is, no one has canceled the cleaning, degreasing and drying of the bottom of the car. Incidentally, this treatment will also improve sound insulation.
Corrosion often goes from the outside in. Like caries on a tooth. At first glance it looks like a small dot, but inside everything is already there, at least pull it out. The main breeding ground for rust can be hidden from view – it is located inside, in the cavities of the thresholds. And since it is impossible to remove rust mechanically, an effective chemistry is needed that saturates the oxides and stops their further development. For the treatment of hidden cavities, compositions of the “Movil” type are used, which, in addition to chemical compounds that suppress corrosion, also contain zinc powder, which enhances the protective effect, for example, the household “Anticor Movil” from RUSEFF. Zinc and corrosion are the worst enemies.
By the way, since we acquired the Movil, we will be processing the joints of the body and door hinges, the cavities in the hood and trunk lid, going through the cups of the racks and it would be nice to see the preparation in the lower cavities of The doors.
At the same time, clean the drain holes. It happens that a lot of water accumulates in the doors.
Now we have to work on thresholds. Outside they can be treated with, for example, reinWell RW-90 anti-gravel. Treatment with such a preparation protects the car thresholds from sand and stones, as a result of which a kind of shell is formed on them.
And of course you have to take care of the wheel arches. The lining of the fender, repeating their internal contours, is – it’s good. But this is not about factory management. They don’t really protect against rocks or sandblasting. Of course you can buy quality safes. But for their installation you need to make holes in the flanges of the wings with self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without holes? It is possible – apply a special, mechanically resistant coating to the surface of the niche. It’s called liquid fenders. Not bad have proven themselves, for example, products based on synthetic rubber, which form an elastic, resistant to aggressive coating, for example, from the same company RUSEFF. Adhesion is also okay. The main thing is to clean, degrease and dry the surface before applying the composition. Such a “liquid fender liner” will last at least a few seasons, even with heavy use.
Here are relatively simple, inexpensive and time-consuming measures that will help extend the life of the most expensive part of the car – its bodywork.
Everything you spend on such a rust preventive, you get back a hundredfold when you sell a car. It is much easier and faster to sell a car with a whole, untouched body than a car that has been damaged by corrosion. When the market situation stabilizes, this can be very helpful.
First you need to protect the body from rust. If the car has already been “walked” quite a bit, then before the winter season with salt baths and sandblasting, it is imperative to process the least protected body elements that have suffered abrasions during the summer season. This also applies to new cars. It is possible, but not worthwhile, to expect that the anti-corrosion treatment has been carried out in the factory. How many videos are there that as such no anti-corrosion treatment is done on the conveyor and new machines already have rusty seams.
And dealers … well, they live with “dopami”, respectively, anti-corrosion. Believe me, at best they will blow “Movil” for the sake of appearance. The car goes for a year or two, on the third it is already transferred to the trade-in. It used to be important for dealers to create a sales plan. Today, there is no flow of people willing to trade in a three-year-old car for a new one. Most are determined to keep riding what they have.
That’s why we take matters into our own hands and carefully inspect the body. We start at the bottom, which actually doesn’t want to rot, namely from the thresholds and the bottom. Special attention to places where there was contact with various objects. Did you grind against the high curbs? And we are sure that no rocks have arrived along the bottom.
If during the inspection they find a damaged coating or, worse, bare metal, we take gun grease, add mining to it, heat it while stirring …. Stop Stop! Leave the collective farm! This is only for garage storytellers, sports, in which it is full of oxides, can effectively fight corrosion. In fact, the opposite is true. So we will only use specialized tools. To protect the bottom, a special anti-corrosion agent is used, which creates a durable non-wetting film on the metal to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.
As an example, we can mention the drug reinWell RW-91, which is produced in Russia under a German license. In addition to protective functions, RW-91 also neutralizes rust residues that have not been removed from the surface before the application of the drug. But this does not mean that the composition can simply be sprayed and forgotten. You still need to prepare the surface. However effective the anti-corrosion agent is, no one has canceled the cleaning, degreasing and drying of the bottom of the car. Incidentally, this treatment will also improve sound insulation.
Corrosion often goes from the outside in. Like caries on a tooth. At first glance it looks like a small dot, but inside everything is already there, at least pull it out. The main breeding ground for rust can be hidden from view – it is located inside, in the cavities of the thresholds. And since it is impossible to remove rust mechanically, an effective chemistry is needed that saturates the oxides and stops their further development. For the treatment of hidden cavities, compositions of the “Movil” type are used, which, in addition to chemical compounds that suppress corrosion, also contain zinc powder, which enhances the protective effect, for example, the household “Anticor Movil” from RUSEFF. Zinc and corrosion are the worst enemies.
By the way, since we acquired the Movil, we will be processing the joints of the body and door hinges, the cavities in the hood and trunk lid, going through the cups of the racks and it would be nice to see the preparation in the lower cavities of The doors.
At the same time, clean the drain holes. It happens that a lot of water accumulates in the doors.
Now we have to work on thresholds. Outside they can be treated with, for example, reinWell RW-90 anti-gravel. Treatment with such a preparation protects the car thresholds from sand and stones, as a result of which a kind of shell is formed on them.
And of course you have to take care of the wheel arches. The lining of the fender, repeating their internal contours, is – it’s good. But this is not about factory management. They don’t really protect against rocks or sandblasting. Of course you can buy quality safes. But for their installation you need to make holes in the flanges of the wings with self-tapping screws. Is it possible to do without holes? It is possible – apply a special, mechanically resistant coating to the surface of the niche. It’s called liquid fenders. Not bad have proven themselves, for example, products based on synthetic rubber, which form an elastic, resistant to aggressive coating, for example, from the same company RUSEFF. Adhesion is also okay. The main thing is to clean, degrease and dry the surface before applying the composition. Such a “liquid fender liner” will last at least a few seasons, even with heavy use.
Here are relatively simple, inexpensive and time-consuming measures that will help extend the life of the most expensive part of the car – its bodywork.
Everything you spend on such a rust preventive, you get back a hundredfold when you sell a car. It is much easier and faster to sell a car with a whole, untouched body than a car that has been damaged by corrosion. When the market situation stabilizes, this can be very helpful.
Source: Avto Vzglyad
Alice Smith is a seasoned journalist and writer for Div Bracket. She has a keen sense of what’s important and is always on top of the latest trends. Alice provides in-depth coverage of the most talked-about news stories, delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles that keep her readers informed and engaged.
