9621 Agnes Crossing, Lake Suzanneview, New Mexico Island 84604-9295.
The desire for clean thresholds in a car sometimes takes on the appearance of obsession. Moreover, attacks occur in the spring or autumn, completely suddenly. You’re sitting behind
The battle against dirty rapids usually follows one pattern. First, store-bought plastic coverings are installed, which are produced for various car models. They are adapted to the shape of the threshold and fit relatively well into the protrusions of the lower part of the opening. Although dirt falls on it, it is absorbed into the porous structure and does not stain clothes as much.
However, overlays also have significant disadvantages. Dirt and water penetrate underneath, stagnate there and over time cause rust spots. In addition, an additional object under the feet always rubs against the paint and leaves deep scratches. After a few years, when you remove the upholstery and look at the sill, your heart will ache with pity for the car.
The next stage of improvement is the installation of rubber seals along the bottom of the door. At first glance, they are more effective than liners because they block access to dirt, but again, not completely. Although it does not penetrate the entire depth of the threshold, as before, it accumulates under the door in front of the rubber bands in the form of a thick black seam. And wiping with a white coat or trouser leg is also unpleasant.
But rubber bands have a bigger problem. When the car is moving, dirt is still sucked through the gap due to the pressure difference inside and outside the body, but through different cracks. Therefore, stains and stains do not appear on the thresholds, but in the lower part of the roof pillar or at the ends of the door. And there the paint and corrosion protection is noticeably weaker than on the thresholds. As a result, rust wears out the bodywork in completely unexpected places.
The struggle for clean pants often leads to the third, most radical method of closing doors. Large seals can be installed on them, which leads to even more unpleasant consequences.
The fact is that the holes under the doors were not made by chance. They are left specifically to allow water to escape from the drainage holes. Look at the bottom of the “gate” – at the ends and in the middle you will see several holes of different sizes and shapes. This removes water that enters through the bottom of the glass during rainfall. If they are blocked, the fluid will stagnate. And when the doors are closed, the new rubber seals block the drains, creating a wet swamp inside. This causes the glass to fog up and metal parts to rot.
There are the same drainage holes on the sills, at the bottom and at the ends, and in the wheel arches. Often, for the sake of good intentions, they are specially blocked with plugs so that no dirt flies in. However, water still appears there in the form of condensation. After a few years it literally gurgles when braking and accelerating. Remove the plug, clean the hole with a screwdriver and more than a liter of liquid will flow from the threshold, like from a kettle. If the space is not drained, the water itself will make a hole through the rotten metal. In general, the fight against dirt, although it makes the pants clean, leads to additional holes in the body.
The cars are designed by skilled engineers and if they left the sills dirty, there are reasons for that. It is easier to put a rag in the cabin and wipe this dirt with it than to mess with non-standard seals and linings. But what needs to be done periodically is cleaning the drainage holes in the sills to ensure good water drainage. It is a good idea to wash them every five years to remove any dirt that has built up there. To do this, the water is pumped in with a regular hose and then drained through the drain holes. After “cleaning” it would not be superfluous to “load” an anti-corrosion agent on the inside to protect the metal from corrosion.
The battle against dirty rapids usually follows one pattern. First, store-bought plastic coverings are installed, which are produced for various car models. They are adapted to the shape of the threshold and fit relatively well into the protrusions of the lower part of the opening. Although dirt falls on it, it is absorbed into the porous structure and does not stain clothes as much.
However, overlays also have significant disadvantages. Dirt and water penetrate underneath, stagnate there and over time cause rust spots. In addition, an additional object under the feet always rubs against the paint and leaves deep scratches. After a few years, when you remove the upholstery and look at the sill, your heart will ache with pity for the car.
The next stage of improvement is the installation of rubber seals along the bottom of the door. At first glance, they are more effective than liners because they block access to dirt, but again, not completely. Although it does not penetrate the entire depth of the threshold, as before, it accumulates under the door in front of the rubber bands in the form of a thick black seam. And wiping with a white coat or trouser leg is also unpleasant.
But rubber bands have a bigger problem. When the car is moving, dirt is still sucked through the gap due to the pressure difference inside and outside the body, but through different cracks. Therefore, stains and stains do not appear on the thresholds, but in the lower part of the roof pillar or at the ends of the door. And there the paint and corrosion protection is noticeably weaker than on the thresholds. As a result, rust wears out the bodywork in completely unexpected places.
The struggle for clean pants often leads to the third, most radical method of closing doors. Large seals can be installed on them, which leads to even more unpleasant consequences.
The fact is that the holes under the doors were not made by chance. They are left specifically to allow water to escape from the drainage holes. Look at the bottom of the “gate” – at the ends and in the middle you will see several holes of different sizes and shapes. This removes water that enters through the bottom of the glass during rainfall. If they are blocked, the fluid will stagnate. And when the doors are closed, the new rubber seals block the drains, creating a wet swamp inside. This causes the glass to fog up and metal parts to rot.
There are the same drainage holes on the sills, at the bottom and at the ends, and in the wheel arches. Often, for the sake of good intentions, they are specially blocked with plugs so that no dirt flies in. However, water still appears there in the form of condensation. After a few years it literally gurgles when braking and accelerating. Remove the plug, clean the hole with a screwdriver and more than a liter of liquid will flow from the threshold, like from a kettle. If the space is not drained, the water itself will make a hole through the rotten metal. In general, the fight against dirt, although it makes the pants clean, leads to additional holes in the body.
The cars are designed by skilled engineers and if they left the sills dirty, there are reasons for that. It is easier to put a rag in the cabin and wipe this dirt with it than to mess with non-standard seals and linings. But what needs to be done periodically is cleaning the drainage holes in the sills to ensure good water drainage. It is a good idea to wash them every five years to remove any dirt that has built up there. To do this, the water is pumped in with a regular hose and then drained through the drain holes. After “cleaning” it would not be superfluous to “load” an anti-corrosion agent on the inside to protect the metal from corrosion.
Source: Avto Vzglyad
Donald Salinas is an experienced automobile journalist and writer for Div Bracket. He brings his readers the latest news and developments from the world of automobiles, offering a unique and knowledgeable perspective on the latest trends and innovations in the automotive industry.
