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How to prevent the engine from “dying” by replacing your own oil with an analogue?

The shortage of oils in the country is increasing, as many motorists are switching from brand-brand motor oil to analogues, or choosing products from domestic manufacturers. The AvtoVzglyad portal tells what risks such a transition entails and how not to ruin the engine.

The transition from imported oil from a well-known brand to a domestic analogue, or to a product brought from Asia, presents many problems for the engine. This is especially true for modern engines, for example boxers or low volume units, or engines equipped with a booster system. Let’s see how we can avoid problems.

Usually, after replacing the original lubricant with an analogue, surprises occur after some time, but always suddenly. The oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel will come on, after which you must stop and turn off the engine, otherwise there will be more problems. Why has the pressure dropped?

Before changing the lubricant, it is good to flush the engine to clean the oil passages. This procedure used to be often done, but then it was forgotten. Now I have to remember it again.

The fact is that the so-called analogue has a different composition of additives, which may not act as effectively as additives in the branded product. This creates breaks in the oil film in the engine, which affects the entire unit. This is especially evident on the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Signs of heavy wear appear on the surfaces of the liners and in the worst case the parts can even be destroyed. As for the koneval, burrs form on it. In summary, these problems can cause a motor wedge to move.

Next, we carefully study the can of lubricant, which we are going to buy and pour into the engine. If the label says Meets or ‘meets’, this means that the oil manufacturer believes that its product meets the requirements of, for example, Mercedes-Benz. But Approved (approved), for example – MB Approval 229.1 says the automaker has independently tested the oil and allowed it to be used in its engines. Obviously the second is much more preferable.

If this is not the case, we look at the quality class and do not fall under the recommended in any case. The SP class is the best oil for today, SN is medium quality and SM can only be filled with old naturally aspirated engines.

In order not to encounter counterfeits, we buy oils in trusted stores, and not in the markets. In this case, it is better to overpay than to turn your car into real estate.

And one more tip. Switching to analogues will require more frequent oil changes, and if you have a supercharged engine, it is good to change the lubricant based on engine hours, not mileage. This requires effort from the driver, as you have to time and count engine hours. But they will more than pay off as the engine will work properly and will not let you down.

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The transition from imported oil from a well-known brand to a domestic analogue, or to a product brought from Asia, presents many problems for the engine. This is especially true for modern engines, for example boxers or low volume units, or engines equipped with a booster system. Let’s see how we can avoid problems.

Usually, after replacing the original lubricant with an analogue, surprises occur after some time, but always suddenly. The oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel will come on, after which you must stop and turn off the engine, otherwise there will be more problems. Why has the pressure dropped?

Before changing the lubricant, it is good to flush the engine to clean the oil passages. This procedure used to be often done, but then it was forgotten. Now I have to remember it again.

The fact is that the so-called analogue has a different composition of additives, which may not work as effectively as additives in the branded product. This creates breaks in the oil film in the engine, which affects the entire unit. This is especially evident on the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Signs of heavy wear appear on the surfaces of the liners and in the worst case the parts can even be destroyed. As for the koneval, burrs form on it. In summary, these problems can cause a motor wedge to move.

Next, we carefully study the can of lubricant, which we are going to buy and pour into the engine. If the label says Meets or ‘meets’, this means that the oil manufacturer believes that its product meets the requirements of, for example, Mercedes-Benz. But Approved (approved), for example – MB Approval 229.1 says the automaker has independently tested the oil and allowed it to be used in its engines. Obviously the second is much more preferable.

If this is not the case, we look at the quality class and do not fall under the recommended in any case. The SP class is the best oil for today, SN is medium quality and SM can only be filled with old naturally aspirated engines.

In order not to encounter counterfeits, we buy oils in trusted stores, and not in the markets. In this case, it is better to overpay than to turn your car into real estate.

And one more tip. Switching to analogues will require more frequent oil changes, and if you have a supercharged engine, it is good to change the lubricant based on engine hours, not mileage. This requires effort from the driver, as you have to time and count engine hours. But they will more than pay off as the engine will work properly and will not let you down.

SUBSCRIBE FOR EXCLUSIVE CONTENT

PORTAL “AVTOVGLYAD” IN TELEGRAM

Source: Avto Vzglyad

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